Easier Chicken and Dumplings

STEW

• 2 1/2 cups low-sodium chicken broth
• 1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breast
• 2 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 2 carrots, peeled and sliced 1/4 inch thick
• 1 small onion, chopped fine
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 2 cloves garlic, pressed (about 1/2 tablespoon)
• 3 tablespoons flour
• 3/8 cup dry sherry
• 1/6 cup heavy cream
• 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme
• 1 bay leaf
• 1/4 teaspoon black pepper
• 4 ounces frozen peas (about 3/4 cup)
• 2 tablespoon minced parsley

DUMPLINGS

• 1 cup flour
• 1/2 tablespoon baking powder
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 2/3 cup heavy cream

1. FOR THE STEW: Bring broth to a simmer in Dutch oven over high heat. Add chicken and return to simmer. Cover, reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer until chicken is just cooked through, about 10 minutes. Transfer chicken to a plate and tent loosely with foil. Transfer broth to a large bowl.

2. Return empty Dutch oven to medium-high heat and melt butter. Add carrots, onion, and salt and cook until softened, about 7 minutes. Stir in garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in flour and cook, stirring frequently, for 1 minute. Stir in sherry, scraping up browned bits. Stir in reserved broth, cream, thyme, bay leaf, and pepper, and bring to a boil. Cover, reduce heat to low, and simmer until stew thickens, about 20 minutes.

3. FOR THE DUMPLINGS: Stir flour, baking powder, and salt together in a large bowl. Stir in cream until incorporated (dough will be very thick and shaggy).

4. TO FINISH: Discard bay leaf and return stew to a rapid simmer. Shred reserved chicken and add to stew along with any accumulated juices, peas, and half the parsley. Shape dumplings by dividing into 9 equal pieces and rolling each into a ball. Reduce heat to low, cover, and cook until dumplings have doubled in size, 15 to 18 minutes. Garnish with remaining parsley. Serve.

serves 3 to 4

adapted from Cook's Illustrated

Blondies

• 1 cup (4 ounces) pecans or walnuts
• 1 1/2 cups (7 1/2 ounces) unbleached all-purpose flour
• I teaspoon baking powder
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 12 tablespoons (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, melted and cooled
• 1 1/2 cups (10 1/2 ounces) packed light brown sugar
• 2 large eggs, lightly beaten
• 4 teaspoons vanilla extract
• 6 ounces Guittard white chocolate chips (1 cup) or chopped bar, or 3 ounces each white chocolate and semisweet chocolate chips

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position; heat oven to 350 degrees. Spread nuts on large rimmed baking sheet and bake until deep golden brown, 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer nuts to cutting board to cool; chop coarsely and set aside.

2. While nuts toast, cut 18-inch length foil and fold lengthwise to 8-inch width. Fit foil into length of 13 by 9-inch baking pan, pushing it into corners and up sides of pan; allow excess to overhang pan edges. Cut 14-inch length foil and fit into width of baking pan in same manner, perpendicular to first sheet. Spray foil-lined pan with nonstick cooking spray.

3. Whisk flour, baking powder, and salt together in medium bowl; set aside.

4. Whisk melted butter and brown sugar together in medium bowl until combined. Add eggs and vanilla and mix well. Using rubber spatula, fold dry ingredients into egg mixture until just combined; do not overmix. Fold in chocolate and nuts and turn batter into prepared pan, smoothing top with rubber spatula.

5. Bake until top is shiny, cracked, and light golden brown, 22 to 25 minutes; do not overbake. Cool on wire rack to room temperature. Remove bars from pan by lifting foil overhang and transfer to cutting board. Cut into 2-inch squares and serve.

Be very careful not to overbake the blondies; they dry out easily and will turn hard. Start checking the oven a couple of minutes before they will be done.

Makes 36 servings

Blondies

• 1 cup (4 ounces) pecans or walnuts
• 1 1/2 cups (7 1/2 ounces) unbleached all-purpose flour
• I teaspoon baking powder
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 12 tablespoons (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, melted and cooled
• 1 1/2 cups (10 1/2 ounces) packed light brown sugar
• 2 large eggs, lightly beaten
• 4 teaspoons vanilla extract
• 6 ounces Guittard white chocolate chips (1 cup) or chopped bar, or 3 ounces each white chocolate and semisweet chocolate chips

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position; heat oven to 350 degrees. Spread nuts on large rimmed baking sheet and bake until deep golden brown, 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer nuts to cutting board to cool; chop coarsely and set aside.

2. While nuts toast, cut 18-inch length foil and fold lengthwise to 8-inch width. Fit foil into length of 13 by 9-inch baking pan, pushing it into corners and up sides of pan; allow excess to overhang pan edges. Cut 14-inch length foil and fit into width of baking pan in same manner, perpendicular to first sheet. Spray foil-lined pan with nonstick cooking spray.

3. Whisk flour, baking powder, and salt together in medium bowl; set aside.

4. Whisk melted butter and brown sugar together in medium bowl until combined. Add eggs and vanilla and mix well. Using rubber spatula, fold dry ingredients into egg mixture until just combined; do not overmix. Fold in chocolate and nuts and turn batter into prepared pan, smoothing top with rubber spatula.

5. Bake until top is shiny, cracked, and light golden brown, 22 to 25 minutes; do not overbake. Cool on wire rack to room temperature. Remove bars from pan by lifting foil overhang and transfer to cutting board. Cut into 2-inch squares and serve.

Be very careful not to overbake the blondies; they dry out easily and will turn hard. Start checking the oven a couple of minutes before they will be done.

Makes 36 servings

Chili con Carne

To ensure the best chile flavor, I recommend toasting whole dried chiles and grinding them in a mini-chopper or spice-dedicated coffee grinder, all of which takes only ten (very well-spent) minutes. Select dried chiles that are moist and pliant, like dried fruit. Count on trimming one-half to a full pound of waste from your chuck roast, so start with a four-pound roast to end up with three to three-and-a-half pounds of beef cubes. For hotter chili, boost the heat with a pinch of cayenne, a dash of hot pepper sauce, or crumbled pequin chiles near the end of cooking. Serve the chili with any of the following side dishes: warm pinto or kidney beans, corn bread or chips, corn tortillas or tamales, rice, biscuits, or just plain crackers, and top with any of the following garnishes: chopped fresh cilantro leaves, minced white onion, diced avocado, shredded cheddar or jack cheese, or sour cream.

• 3 tablespoons ancho chili powder or 3 medium pods (about 1/2 ounce), toasted and ground
• 3 tablespoons New Mexico chili powder or 3 medium pods (about 3/4 ounce), toasted and ground
• 2 tablespoons cumin seeds toasted in a dry skillet over medium heat until fragrant, about 4 minutes, and ground
• 2 teaspoons dried oregano preferably Mexican
• 7 1/2 cups water
• 1 beef chuck roast (4-pounds), trimmed of excess fat and cut into 1-inch cubes
• 2 teaspoons table salt plus extra for seasoning
• 8 ounces bacon (7 or 8 slices), cut into 1/4-inch pieces
• 1 medium onion minced (about 1 cup)
• 5 medium cloves of garlic minced
• 4 - 5 small jalapeno chiles cored, seeded, and minced
• 1 cup crushed tomatoes or plain tomato sauce
• 2 tablespoons lime juice from 1 medium lime
• 5 tablespoons masa harina or 3 tablespoons cornstarch
• ground black pepper

1. Mix chili powders, cumin, and oregano in small bowl and stir in 1/2 cup water to form thick paste; set aside. Toss beef cubes with salt; set aside.

2. Fry bacon in large, heavy soup kettle or Dutch oven over medium-low heat until fat renders and bacon crisps, about 10 minutes. Remove bacon with slotted spoon to paper towel-lined plate; pour all but 2 teaspoons fat from pot into small bowl; set aside. Increase heat to medium-high; saute meat in four batches until well-browned on all sides, about 5 minutes per batch, adding additional 2 teaspoons bacon fat to pot as necessary. Reduce heat to medium, add 3 tablespoons bacon fat to now-empty pan. Add onion; saute until softened, 5 to 6 minutes. Add garlic and jalapeno; saute until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add chili paste; saute until fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes. Add reserved bacon and browned beef, crushed tomatoes or tomato sauce, lime juice, and 7 cups water; bring to simmer. Continue to cook at a steady simmer until meat is tender and juices are dark, rich, and starting to thicken, about 2 hours.

3. Mix masa harina with 2/3 cup water (or cornstarch with 3 tablespoons water) in a small bowl to form smooth paste. Increase heat to medium; stir in paste and simmer until thickened, 5 to 10 minutes. Adjust seasoning generously with salt and ground black pepper. Serve immediately, or preferably, cool slightly, cover, and refrigerate overnight or for up to 5 days. Reheat before serving.

from Cooks Illustrated

Yield: 6 servings

Mulled Red Wine

• 3 cinnamon sticks, 3 inches each
• 10 whole cloves
• 10 black peppercorns
• 1 teaspoon (about 25) allspice berries
• 2 bottles medium- or full-bodied red wine, such as Cabernet, Pinot Noir, or Zinfandel
• 4 strips zest from 1 orange, removed with vegetable peeler, each strip about 2 inches long by 1/2 inch wide, cleaned of any white pith
• 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
• 2 to 4 tablespoons brandy

1. Toast cinnamon sticks, cloves, peppercorns, and allspice in medium heavy-bottomed nonreactive saucepan over medium-high heat until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add wine, orange zest, and 1/2 cup sugar; cover partially and bring to simmer, stirring occasionally to dissolve sugar. Reduce heat to low and simmer 1 hour until wine is infused; do not boil.

2. Strain wine through fine-mesh strainer; return wine to saucepan and discard spices and orange zest. Stir 2 tablespoons brandy into wine; taste and add up to 2 tablespoons more sugar and 2 tablespoons more brandy, if desired. Ladle wine into small mugs; serve immediately.

The flavor of the mulled wine deteriorates if it is simmered for longer than one hour. It is best served immediately after mulling but will keep fairly hot off the heat, covered, for about 30 minutes. Leftover mulled wine can be reheated in the microwave or in a saucepan on the stovetop.

from Cooks Illustrated

Yield: Makes about 1 1/2 quarts (8 servings)

Quicker Bread Stuffing with Sage and Thyme

This recipe can be doubled. We recommend Arnold's, Bell's, or Pepperidge Farm's stuffing mixes--in that order.

• 8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, plus extra for greasing baking dish
• 2 celery stalks, chopped fine
• 1 onion, minced
• 1/4 cup minced fresh parsley
• 1 1/2 tablespoons minced fresh (or 1 teaspoon dried) sage
• 1 1/2 tablespoons minced fresh (or 1 teaspoon dried) thyme
• 21 ounces dry commercial stuffing mix
• 3 1/2 cups low-sodium chicken broth
• 2 large eggs, lightly beaten
• 1 teaspoon pepper

1. Adjust an oven rack to the middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Melt 6 tablespoons butter in 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add celery and onions, and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in parsley, sage, and thyme. Cook until fragrant, about 15 seconds. Toss mixture into dry stuffing mix.

2. Add broth, eggs, and pepper and toss. Turn mixture into well-greased 13 by 9-inch baking dish. Melt remaining 2 tablespoons butter. Brush butter evenly over top of stuffing, then cover tightly with foil. Bake for 25 minutes.

3. Remove foil and continue to bake until golden brown crust forms, 25 to 30 minutes longer. Let stuffing rest for 10 minutes before serving.

from Cooks Illustrated

Yield: 6 to 8 servings

Carbonnade a la Flamande (Belgian Beef, Beer, and Onion Stew)

Top blade steaks (also called blade or flatiron steaks) are our first choice, but any boneless roast from the chuck will work. If you end up using a chuck roast, look for the chuck eye roast, an especially flavorful cut that can easily be trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces. Buttered egg noodles or mashed potatoes make excellent accompaniments to carbonnade. The traditional copper-colored Belgian ale works best in this stew. If you can't find one, choose another dark or amber-colored ale of your liking.

• 3 1/2 pounds top blade steak 1 inch thick, trimmed of gristle and fat and cut into 1-inch pieces
• table salt and ground black pepper
• 3 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 2 pounds yellow onions (about 3 medium)
• 1 tablespoon tomato paste
• 2 medium cloves of garlic minced or pressed through garlic press (about 2 teaspoons)
• 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
• 3/4 cup low-sodium chicken broth
• 3/4 cup low-sodium beef broth
• 1 1/2 cups beer 12-ounce bottle or can
• 4 sprigs fresh thyme tied with kitchen twine
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 tablespoon cider vinegar

1. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position; heat oven to 300 degrees. Dry beef thoroughly with paper towels, then season generously with salt and pepper. Heat 2 teaspoons oil in large heavy-bottomed Dutch oven over medium-high heat until beginning to smoke; add about one-third of beef to pot. Cook without moving pieces until well browned, 2 to 3 minutes; using tongs, turn each piece and continue cooking until second side is well browned, about 5 minutes longer. Transfer browned beef to medium bowl. Repeat with additional 2 teaspoons oil and half of remaining beef. (If drippings in bottom of pot are very dark, add about 1/2 cup of above-listed chicken or beef broth and scrape pan bottom with wooden spoon to loosen browned bits; pour liquid into bowl with browned beef, then proceed.) Repeat once more with 2 teaspoons oil and remaining beef.

2. Add remaining 1 tablespoon oil to now-empty Dutch oven; reduce heat to medium-low. Add onions, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and tomato paste; cook, scraping bottom of pot with wooden spoon to loosen browned bits, until onions have released some moisture, about 5 minutes. Increase heat to medium and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are lightly browned, 12 to 14 minutes. Stir in garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add flour and stir until onions are evenly coated and flour is lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Stir in broths, scraping pan bottom to loosen browned bits; stir in beer, thyme, bay, vinegar, browned beef with any accumulated juices, and salt and pepper to taste. Increase heat to medium-high and bring to full simmer, stirring occasionally; cover partially, then place pot in oven. Cook until fork inserted into beef meets little resistance, about 2 hours.

3. Discard thyme and bay. Adjust seasonings with salt and pepper to taste and serve. (Can be cooled and refrigerated in airtight container for up to 4 days; reheat over medium-low heat.)

from Cooks Illustrated

Yield: 6 servings

Pasta with Tomato, Bacon, and Onion (Pasta all' Amatriciana)

This dish is traditionally made with bucatini, also called perciatelli, which appear to be thick, round strands but are actually thin, extra-long tubes. Linguine works fine, too. When buying pancetta, ask the butcher to slice it 1/4 inch thick; if using bacon, buy slab bacon and cut it into 1/4-inch-thick slices yourself. If the pancetta that you're using is very lean, it's unlikely that you will need to drain off any fat before adding the onion. Use 1 1/2 small (14 1/2 ounce) cans of diced tomatoes, or dice a single large (28 ounce) can of whole tomatoes packed in juice.

• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 6 ounces pancetta (1/4-inch-thick sliced) or bacon cut into strips about 1 inch long and 1/4 inch wide
• 1 medium onion chopped fine
• 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes or to taste
• 2 1/2 cups diced tomatoes with juice
• 1 pound bucatini or perciatelli, or linguine
• 1/3 cup grated Pecorino Romano cheese (about 1 1/2 ounces)

1. Bring 4 quarts water to rolling boil in large stockpot or Dutch oven.

2. Meanwhile, heat oil in large skillet over medium heat until shimmering, but not smoking. Add pancetta or bacon and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned and crisp, about 8 minutes. Transfer pancetta or bacon with slotted spoon to paper towel-lined plate; set aside. If necessary, drain all but 2 tablespoons fat from skillet. Add onion to skillet; saute over medium heat until softened, about 5 minutes. Add red pepper flakes and cook to release flavor, about 30 seconds. Stir in tomatoes and salt to taste; simmer until slightly thickened, about 10 minutes.

3. While sauce is simmering, add 1 1/2 teaspoons salt and pasta to boiling water. Cook until pasta is al dente; drain and return pasta to empty pot.

4. Add pancetta to tomato sauce and adjust seasoning with salt. Add sauce to pot with pasta and toss over low heat to combine, about 30 seconds. Add cheese and toss again; serve with Arugula and Roasted Pear Salad.

from Cooks Illustrated

Yield: 4 servings

Arugula and Roasted Pear Salad with Walnuts and Parmesan Cheese

• 4 firm Anjou or Bartlett pears (about 2 pounds)
• 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted
• 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
• 1 1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 teaspoons white wine vinegar
• 1/2 teaspoon table salt
• ground black pepper
• 2 bunches of arugula (about 7 cups)
• 4 ounces Parmesan cheese
• 1 cup walnuts

Chop walnuts coarsely and toast in small dry skillet over medium heat until lightly browned and fragrant, about 3 minutes. Set aside to cool.

For Roasted Pears: Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position, place baking sheet or broiler pan bottom on rack, and heat oven to 500 degrees.

Peel and halve each pear lengthwise. With paring knife or melon baller, remove core. Set each half cut-side down and slice lengthwise into fifths.

Toss pears with butter; add sugar and toss again to combine. Spread pears in single layer on preheated baking sheet, making sure each slice lies flat on surface. Roast until browned on bottom, about 10 minutes. Flip each slice and roast until tender and deep golden brown, about 5 minutes longer. Let pears cool while preparing salad.

For Salad: Whisk together oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper to taste in small bowl.

Remove arugula stems, wash, dry, and tear into bite-sized pieces. 4 ounces Shave Parmesan cheese into thin strips with vegetable peeler. Combine arugula, pears, and Parmesan in large serving bowl. Add vinaigrette and toss gently to combine; sprinkle with chopped walnuts. Serve immediately.

menu: with Pasta all' Amatriciana

from Cooks Illustrated

Yield: 4-6 servings

Chicken Caesar Salad

Garlic Croutons

• 2 large cloves of garlic, minced fine or pressed through garlic press
• 1/4 teaspoon table salt
• 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 3 cups 3/4-inch bread cubes from 1 baguette or country loaf

Broiled Chicken Breasts

• 6 tablespoons kosher salt or 3 tablespoons table salt
• 3 tablespoons granulated sugar
• 4 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves (about 6 ounces each), trimmed of excess fat
• ground black pepper

Caesar Dressing

• 2 large eggs
• 3 tablespoons lemon juice from one lemon
• 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
• 1/4 teaspoon table salt
• 1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper
• 1 medium clove of garlic , minced fine or pressed through garlic press (about 1 teaspoon)
• 4 anchovy fillets (flat), minced
• 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Salad

• 2 medium heads of romaine lettuce (large outer leaves removed) or 2 large romaine hearts; washed, dried, and torn into 1 1/2-inch pices (about 10 cups lightly packed)
• 1/3 cup Parmesan cheese, grated

1. For the croutons: Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Mix garlic, salt, and oil in small bowl; let stand 20 minutes to infuse flavors, then pour through fine-mesh strainer into medium bowl. Add bread cubes and toss to coat. Spread bread cubes in even layer on rimmed baking sheet; bake, stirring occasionally, until golden, 12 to 15 minutes. Cool croutons on baking sheet to room temperature. (Can be covered and stored at room temperature up to 24 hours.)

2. For the chicken: Dissolve salt and sugar in 11/2 quarts cold water in gallon-sized zipper-lock bag or plastic container. Add chicken and seal bag, pressing out as much air as possible; refrigerate 30 minutes until fully seasoned. Remove chicken from brine, dry thoroughly with paper towels, and season with pepper.

3. Meanwhile, adjust oven rack to upper-middle position (should be about 6 inches away from heating element) and heat broiler. Spray broiler pan top lightly with nonstick cooking spray and position over pan bottom. Place chicken on pan; broil until spotty brown and firm to the touch, about 8 minutes, turning chicken halfway through cooking. Transfer chicken to plate and set aside.

4. For the dressing: Bring 2 inches water to boil in small saucepan over high heat. Lower eggs into water and cook 45 seconds; remove with slotted spoon. When cool enough to handle, crack eggs open; reserve yolks in small bowl and discard whites. Add lemon juice, Worcestershire, salt, pepper, garlic, and anchovies to yolks; whisk until smooth. Whisking constantly, add oil in slow, steady stream. Adjust seasonings with salt and pepper. (Dressing can be refrigerated in airtight container up to 1 day; shake before using.)

5. To finish the salad: In large bowl, toss lettuce, Parmesan, and about two-thirds of dressing to coat; divide evenly among individual plates. Remove tenderloins from chicken breasts; place in bowl used to dress lettuce, along with remaining dressing. Cut chicken breasts crosswise into 1/2-inch slices, add to bowl, and toss to coat. Divide dressed chicken evenly among plates, arranging slices on lettuce. Sprinkle each plate with a portion of croutons and serve immediately.

For efficiency, several components of the salad can be prepared at the same time. Start by preparing the flavored oil for the croutons. While the oil infuses, prepare the brine and brine the chicken. Once the chicken is brining, finish the croutons and prepare the dressing. If you follow these steps, all the components will be ready to come together when the chicken is cooked. Or, if you prefer to work in advance, both the croutons and the dressing can be made one day ahead.

from Cooks Illustrated

Yield: 4 servings

Old-Fashioned Gingerbread

• 2 1/4 cups sifted, unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 2 teaspoons ground dried ginger
• 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
• 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
• 1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
• 1 teaspoon Dutch-processed cocoa
• 8 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted, then cooled to room temperature
• 3/4 cup light unsulphured molasses
• 3/4 cup granulated sugar
• 1/2 cup buttermilk
• 1/2 cup milk
• 1 large egg
• Orange Sauce for Gingerbread (optional)

1. Adjust oven rack to center position and heat oven to 350 degrees.

2. Whisk together flour, baking soda, salt, ginger, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, allspice, and cocoa in medium bowl.

3. Beat butter, molasses, sugar, buttermilk, milk, and egg in large bowl of an electric mixer on low speed.

4. Add dry ingredients to liquid; beat on medium speed until batter is smooth and thick, about 1 minute, scraping down sides of bowl with rubber spatula as needed. Do not overmix. (If using the fresh ginger, batter will be lumpy.)

5. Working quickly, pour batter into nonstick 11-by-7-by-1 1/2-inch rectangular metal baking pan and smooth surface. (If you do not have a nonstick baking pan, then use no-stick cooking spray or solid vegetable shortening to grease pan sides and bottom, then dust with flour.)

6. Bake until top springs back when lightly touched, and edges have pulled away from the pan sides, about 35 to 45 minutes.

7. Set pan on wire cake rack and let cool 5 to 10 minutes. Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature. (Gingerbread can be wrapped in plastic wrap, then foil, and refrigerated up to 5 days.)

For stronger ginger flavor, replace the dried ginger with three tablespoons grated peeled fresh ginger root and three tablespoons minced crystallized ginger.

Yield: 8 servings

from Cooks Illustrated

Spicy Peanut Noodles with Chicken

• 1/4 cup chunky peanut butter
• 2 medium cloves of garlic, minced (about 2 teaspoons)
• 1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
• 5 tablespoons soy sauce
• 2 tablespoons rice vinegar
• 1 tablespoon chile garlic sauce
• 2 tablespoons light brown sugar lightly packed
• 1 tablespoon peanut oil
• 1 1/2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breast, cut into tenders
• 1 tablespoon table salt
• 1/2 pound dried Asian noodle
• 2 carrots, julienned
• snow peas or sugar snaps
• 1 small red bell pepper, julienned

1. Bring 6 quarts water to boil in stockpot over high heat.

2. Meanwhile, heat oil in saute pan or wok. Stir-fry chicken breasts until lightly browned, 4 to 8 minutes. Transfer to cutting board and let rest 5 minutes. Using 2 forks, shred chicken into bite-size pieces and set aside.

3. Mix peanut butter, garlic, ginger, soy sauce, vinegar, hot sauce, and sugar until smooth.

4. Steam vegetables.

5. Using same water, prepare noodles following package directions.

6. Mix vegetables and chicken with sauce in saute pan until heated through. Reduce sauce a bit if necessary. Add noodles and toss thoroughly to combine.

4-6 servings

adapted from Cooks Illustrated

Orange and Almond Oatmeal Cookies

• 2 sticks (1/2 pound) unsalted butter, softened but still firm
• 1 cup light brown sugar
• 1 cup granulated sugar
• 2 eggs
• 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
• 3 cups rolled oats
• 2 tablespoons minced orange zest
• 1 cup toasted chopped almonds

1. Adjust oven racks to low and middle positions; heat oven to 350 degrees. In bowl of electric mixer or by hand, beat butter until creamy. Add sugars; beat until fluffy, about 3 minutes. Beat in eggs one at a time.

2. Mix flour, salt, baking powder, and nutmeg together, then stir them into butter-sugar mixture with wooden spoon or large rubber spatula. Remove orange zest with peeler, being careful to leave behind any white pith. Toast almonds in 350-degree oven for 5 minutes and chop. Stir in oats, almonds, and orange zest.

3. Form dough into sixteen to twenty 2-inch balls, placing each dough round onto one of two parchment paper-covered, large cookie sheets. Bake until cookie edges turn golden brown, 22 to 25 minutes. (Halfway during baking, turn cookie sheets from front to back and also switch them from top to bottom.) Slide cookies on parchment onto cooling rack. Let cool at least 30 minutes before serving.

If you prefer a less sweet cookie, you can reduce the white sugar by one-quarter cup, but you will lose some crispness. Do not overbake these cookies. The edges should be brown but the rest of the cookie should still be very light in color. Parchment makes for easy cookie removal and cleanup, but it's not a necessity. If you don't use parchment, let the cookies cool directly on the baking sheet for two minutes before transferring them to a cooling rack.

Makes 16 to 20 large cookies.

Grill Roasted Beer Can Chicken with Citrus-Cilantro Wet Rub

• 1 cup kosher salt or 1/2 cup table salt
• 1 whole chicken (about 3 1/2 pounds)
• 1/2 teaspoon cumin
• 1/2 teaspoon chili powder
• 1/2 teaspoon sweet paprika
• 1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
• 1 tablespoon orange juice
• 1 1/2 teaspoons lime juice
• 1 1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 small garlic clove, minced very fine
• 1 tablespoon minced fresh cilantro leaves
• 4 3-inch wood chunks
• 1 (12-ounce) can beer

Dissolve the salt in 2 quarts cold water in a large container. Immerse the chicken in the salted water and refrigerate until fully seasoned, about 1 hour. Soak the wood chunks in cold water to cover for 1 hour and drain.

Combine ingredients for the rub in a small bowl.

Remove chicken from the brine and rinse inside and out with cool running water; pat dry with paper towels. Massage the rub all over the chicken, inside and out. Lift up the sin over the breast and rub the spice mixture directly onto the meat.

Light a large chimney starter filled a little more than halfway with charcoal briquettes and allow to burn until covered with a thin layer of gray ash. Empty the coals into the grill. Divide the coals in half to form two piles on either side of the grill; use long-handled tongs to move any stray coals into the piles. Nestle 2 soaked wood chunks on top of each pile. Position the grill rack over the coals and cover the grill. Heat the rack for 5 minutes, then scrape it clean with a wire brush.

Open the beer can and pour out (or drink) about 1/4 cup. With a church key can opener, punch two more large holes in the top of the can (for a total of three). Slice the chicken over the can so that the drumsticks reach down to the bottom of the can and the chicken stands upright.

Place the chicken and beer can on the cool part of the grill. Cover and grill-roast, rotating the bird and can 180 degrees at the halfway mark to ensure even cooking, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh registers 170 to 175 degrees, 70 to 90 minutes.

With a large wad of paper towels in each hand, transfer the chicken and can to a platter or tray, making sure to keep the can upright. Let rest for 15 minutes. Using wads of paper towel, carefully lift the chicken off the can and onto a platter or cutting board. Discard the remaining beer and can. Carve the chicken and serve.

Classic Lemonade

• 10-12 medium lemons, scrubbed well, halved pole to pole, all halves sliced thin
• 1 1/4 cups sugar
• Pinch of salt (optional)
• 5 cups cold water
• fresh mint leaves (optional)

Mash lemons and sugar (and salt, if using) in large, deep bowl or saucepan with potato masher or wooden spoon until lemon slices give up their juice, sugar is dissolved, and juice is thickened to syrup consistency, about 4 minutes. Pour half the lemon slices and syrup through large sieve over bowl or saucepan; press on solids with masher or back of wooden spoon to release as much liquid as possible. Discard solids; transfer liquid to serving pitcher. Repeat process with remaining lemon slices. Stir in water until blended. Chill well and stir to blend before serving, over ice if desired.

Makes 1 1/2 quarts.

Hearty Beef Stew

• 3 pounds beef chuck, cut into 1 1/2-inch cubes
• 1 1/2 teaspoons salt
• 1 teaspoon ground black pepper
• 3 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 2 medium-large onions, chopped coarse (about 2 cups)
• 3 garlic cloves, minced
• 3 tablespoons flour
• 1 cup full-bodied red wine
• 2 cups chicken stock or low-sodium chicken-flavored broth
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 teaspoon dried thyme leaves
• 6 small boiling potatoes, peeled and halved
• 4 large carrots, peeled and sliced 1/4 inch thick
• 1 cup frozen peas (6 ounces), thawed
• 1/4 cup minced fresh parsley leaves

Make this stew in a large, heavy-bottomed soup kettle measuring at least ten inches in diameter. If the kettle is any smaller, you may need to cook the meat in three batches rather than two.

1. Heat oven to 250 degrees. Place beef cubes in large bowl. Sprinkle with salt and pepper; toss to coat. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil over medium-high heat in large nonreactive soup kettle; add beef to kettle in two separate batches. Brown meat on all sides, about 5 minutes per batch, adding remaining tablespoon of oil if needed. Remove meat and set aside. Add onions to now empty kettle; saute until almost softened, 4 to 5 minutes. Reduce heat to medium and add garlic; continue to saute about 30 seconds longer. Stir in flour; cook until lightly colored, 1 to 2 minutes. Add wine, scraping up any browned bits that may have stuck to kettle. Add stock, bay leaves, and thyme; bring to simmer. Add meat; return to simmer. Cover and place in oven; simmer about 1 hour.

2. Remove kettle from oven, add potatoes and carrots, cover, and return to oven. Simmer until meat is just tender, 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Remove stew from oven. (Can be cooled, covered, and refrigerated up to 3 days.)

3. Add peas and allow to stand 5 minutes. Stir in parsley, adjust seasonings, and serve.

variations:

BEEF STEW WITH BACON, MUSHROOMS, AND PEARL ONIONS

Rather than the portions of liquid in Hearty Beef Stew, use equal portions of red wine and stock (one and one-half cups of each). Instead of the frozen pearl onions called for here, you can use an equal amount of fresh pearl onions that have been blanched, peeled, and steamed.

1. Follow recipe for Hearty Beef Stew, making the following changes: Before preparing beef, fry 4 ounces sliced bacon, cut into small dice, in bottom of kettle until brown and crisp. Drain bacon, reserving bits and drippings. Substitute drippings for oil when browning meat. Return bacon to kettle with stock, bay leaves, and thyme.

2. Omit potatoes, carrots, and peas. Heat 2 tablespoons of reserved drippings in large skillet until hot and add 1 pound white mushrooms, quartered; saute over high heat until browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove from skillet, then add 1 cup (8 ounces) frozen pearl onions, cooked according to package directions. Saute until lightly browned, 2 to 3 minutes. When meat is almost tender, 2 to 2 1/2 hours, add mushrooms and pearl onions to stew. Cover and return to oven. Cook until meat and pearl onions are tender, 20 to 30 minutes longer. Stir in parsley, adjust seasonings, and serve.

BEEF STEW WITH TOMATOES, ORANGE ZEST, AND OLIVES

1. Follow recipe for Hearty Beef Stew, making the following changes: Substitute 1 cup chopped tomatoes with their juice for 1 cup of the stock. Add two strips orange zest when adding stock. Substitute equal portion herbes de Provence for the thyme.

2. Omit potatoes, carrots, and peas. Stir in 1 cup black olives such as Kalamata to fully cooked stew. Cover and let stand 5 minutes. Stir in parsley, adjust seasonings, and serve.

BEEF STEW WITH TOMATOES, CINNAMON, AND CLOVES

1. Follow recipe for Hearty Beef Stew, making the following changes: Stir in 1 tablespoon tomato paste after flour has colored. Substitute 1 cup tomatoes for 1 cup of the stock and add 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon and 1/8 teaspoon ground cloves along with stock, bay leaves, and thyme.

2. Omit potatoes, carrots, and peas. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in medium skillet; add 1 cup frozen pearl onions, cooked according to package directions, and sauté until lightly browned, 2 to 3 minutes. When meat is almost tender, 2 to 2 1/2 hours, add pearl onions and 1/3 cup currants to stew. Cover and return to oven. Cook until meat and pearl onions are tender, 20 to 30 minutes longer. Stir in parsley, adjust seasonings, and serve.

6 servings

Simplified Cassoulet with Pork and Kielbasa

• 1 cup kosher salt
• 1 cup sugar
• 10 bone-in chicken thighs (about 3 1/2 pounds), skin removed
• 6 slices good-quality white sandwich bread, cut into 1/2-inch dice (about 3 cups)
• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
• 4 slices bacon (about 4 ounces)
• 1 pound dried flageolet or great Northern beans, picked over and rinsed
• 1 medium onion, peeled and left whole, plus 1 small onion, chopped
• 4 medium garlic cloves, 2 peeled and left whole, 2 peeled and minced
• Vegetable oil
• 1 pound boneless blade-end pork loin roast, trimmed of excess fat and silver skin and cut into 1-inch pieces
• 1 can (14.5 ounces) diced tomatoes, drained
• 1 tablespoon tomato paste
• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme leaves
• 1 bay leaf
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
• Ground black pepper
• 1 1/2 cups chicken stock or canned low-sodium chicken broth
• 1 cup dry white wine
• 1/2 pound Kielbasa, halved lengthwise and cut into 1/2-inch slices

1. Brining the chicken: In gallon-sized zipper-lock plastic bag, dissolve salt and sugar in 1 quart cold water. Add chicken, pressing out as much air as possible; seal and refrigerate until fully seasoned, about 1 hour. Remove chicken from brine, rinse thoroughly under cold water, and pat dry with paper towels. Refrigerate until ready to use.

2. Preparing the topping: While chicken is brining, adjust oven rack to upper-middle position; heat oven to 400 degrees. Mix bread crumbs and butter in small baking dish. Bake, tossing occasionally, until light golden brown and crisp, 8 to 12 minutes. Cool to room temperature; set aside.

3. In heavy-bottomed, 8-quart Dutch oven, cook bacon slices over medium heat until just beginning to crisp and most fat has rendered, 5 to 6 minutes. Leaving bacon slices in pan, pour off bacon grease into heatproof measuring cup and reserve. Return pan to heat; add beans, 10 cups water, whole onion, and whole garlic cloves to pan with bacon. Bring to boil over medium-high heat; reduce heat to low, cover partially, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until beans are partially cooked and almost tender, 40 to 50 minutes. Reserving 1¬Ω cups cooking liquid, drain beans. Discard onion, garlic, and bacon.

3. Add vegetable oil to reserved bacon grease to equal ¼ cup. In now-empty Dutch oven, heat bacon grease and vegetable oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add half of chicken thighs, fleshy-side down; cook until lightly browned, 3 to 4 minutes. Using tongs, turn chicken pieces and cook until lightly browned on second side, 2 to 3 minutes longer. Transfer chicken to large plate; repeat with remaining thighs and set aside. Drain off all but 2 tablespoons fat from pot. Return pot to medium heat; add pork pieces and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add chopped onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, 3 to 4 minutes. Add minced garlic, tomatoes, tomato paste, thyme, bay leaf, cloves, and pepper to taste; cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in chicken stock, wine, and 1 cup of reserved bean cooking liquid; increase heat to medium-high and bring to boil, scraping up browned bits off bottom of pot with wooden spoon. Add chicken and beans; if liquid does not fully cover chicken and beans, add remaining ½ cup reserved bean cooking liquid. Reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer until chicken is cooked through and beans are tender, about 40 minutes.

4. Meanwhile, adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 425 degrees. Off heat, gently stir in Kielbasa and sprinkle surface with bread crumbs. Bake uncovered until topping is golden brown, about 10 minutes. Let rest 10 minutes and serve.

8 servings

Chewy, Fudgy Triple Chocolate Brownies

• 5 ounces semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, chopped
• 2 ounces unsweetened chocolate, chopped
• 8 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into quarters
• 3 tablespoons cocoa powder
• 3 large eggs
• 1 1/4 cups sugar
• 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1 cup (5 ounces) all-purpose flour

1. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Spray 8-inch square baking pan with nonstick vegetable cooking spray. Fold two 12-inch pieces of foil lengthwise so that they measure 7 inches wide. Fit one sheet in bottom of greased pan, pushing it into corners and up sides of pan; overhang will help in removal of baked brownies. Fit second sheet in pan in same manner, perpendicular to first sheet. Spray foil with nonstick cooking spray.

2. In medium heatproof bowl set over a pan of almost-simmering water, melt chocolates and butter, stirring occasionally until mixture is smooth. Whisk in cocoa until smooth. Set aside to cool slightly.

3. Whisk together eggs, sugar, vanilla, and salt in medium bowl until combined, about 15 seconds. Whisk warm chocolate mixture into egg mixture; then stir in flour with wooden spoon until just combined. Pour mixture into prepared pan, spread into corners, and level surface with rubber spatula; bake until slightly puffed and toothpick inserted in center comes out with a small amount of sticky crumbs clinging to it, 35 to 40 minutes. Cool on wire rack to room temperature, about 2 hours, then remove brownies from pan using foil handles. Cut into 1-inch squares and serve. (Do not cut brownies until ready to serve; brownies can be wrapped in plastic and refrigerated up to 5 days.)

Makes 64 1-inch brownie servings

Apple Upside-Down Gingerbread

• 2 1/4 cups sifted, unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 2 teaspoons ground dried ginger
• 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
• 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
• 1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
• 1 teaspoon Dutch-processed cocoa
• 8 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted, then cooled to room temperature
• 3/4 cup light unsulphured molasses
• 3/4 cup granulated sugar
• 1/2 cup buttermilk
• 1/2 cup milk
• 1 large egg
• 3 tart baking apples (Granny Smith or Jonathan)

1. Adjust oven rack to center position and heat oven to 350 degrees.

2. Whisk together flour, baking soda, salt, ginger, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, allspice, and cocoa in medium bowl.

3. Beat butter, molasses, sugar, buttermilk, milk, and egg in large bowl of an electric mixer on low speed.

4. Add dry ingredients to liquid; beat on medium speed until batter is smooth and thick, about 1 minute, scraping down sides of bowl with rubber spatula as needed. Do not overmix. (If using the fresh ginger, batter will be lumpy.)

5. For the apple topping: Grease sides of 11-by-7-by-1 1/2-inch metal pan. Pour 4 tablespoons melted unsalted butter into pan; spread 3/4 cup light brown sugar evenly over pan bottom. Peel, halve, core, and slice thin three tart baking apples (Granny Smith or Jonathan). Arrange slices, overlapping slightly upon brown sugar mixture.

6. Working quickly, pour batter over apples.

7. Bake until top springs back when lightly touched, and edges have pulled away from the pan sides, about 50 to 60 minutes.

7. Set pan on wire cake rack and let cool 5 minutes. Invert onto serving plate, cut into squares, and serve. Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature. (Gingerbread can be wrapped in plastic wrap, then foil, and refrigerated up to 5 days.)

For stronger ginger flavor, replace the dried ginger with three tablespoons grated peeled fresh ginger root and three tablespoons minced crystallized ginger.

8 servings

Orange Sauce for Gingerbread

• 1 1/3 cups juice plus 1 teaspoon zest from 4 large oranges
• 1/2 cup granulated sugar
• 4 teaspoons cornstarch
• 1/8 teaspoon salt
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 tablespoon juice from a small lemon

1. In small sauce pan bring orange juice, sugar, cornstarch, and salt to boil over medium heat, stirring constantly. Continue to cook until sauce is thick and clear, about 1 minute.

2. Remove from heat, then stir in butter, lemon juice, and zest. Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature over gingerbread squares.