Salmon Roasted in Butter

Be sure to preheat the butter or oil, along with a little bit of the herb, in a roasting pan in a hot oven. This preheating causes the fish to sizzle the instant it's set into the pan, so that it browns before it overcooks. If you start the fillet in a cold pan, it will simply turn a dull pink and will not brown until it is as dry as chalk.

• 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) butter
  
• 4 tablespoons minced chervil, parsley or dill
  
• 1 salmon fillet, 1 1/2 to 2 pounds
  
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
  
• Lemon wedges
  

1. Preheat the oven to 475 degrees. Place the butter and half the herb in a roasting pan just large enough to fit the salmon and place it in the oven. Heat about 5 minutes, until the butter melts and the herb begins to sizzle.

2. Add the salmon to the pan, skin side up. Roast 4 minutes. Remove from the oven, then peel the skin off. (If the skin does not lift right off, cook 2 minutes longer.) Sprinkle with salt and pepper and turn the fillet over. Sprinkle with salt and pepper again.

3. Roast 3 to 5 minutes more, depending on the thickness of the fillet and the degree of doneness you prefer. Cut into serving portions, spoon a little of the butter over each and garnish with the remaining herb. Serve with lemon wedges.

Variations: The basic recipe can easily be varied. An equal quantity of extra virgin olive oil can be substituted for the butter, and 2 teaspoons basil or thyme leaves or 2 tablespoons marjoram leaves for the dill, chervil or parsley. Or peanut oil can be substituted for the butter (with a teaspoon of dark sesame oil for flavor if you like) and cilantro or mint for the dill, chervil or parsley; with this version, use lime instead of lemon.

Time 15 minutes

Makes Yield 4 to 6 servings

From The Minimalist (Mark Bittman) in NY Times